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So, that will not do.  If any of you are reading this and want to hook a brother up, please link to my www.elfboxes.com site.  It would help me out a lot.

And obviously, if you are in the market for moving boxes, let me know.  The site should be live and taking orders in a few days.  thanks.

Haga est l’un des plus anciens quartiers de Göteborg et son nom vient de l’horticulture qu’on y trouvait au XVIIe siècle. De nos jours, ses rues piétonnes  sont bordées de petits cafés et de boutiques qui se sont installés dans les maisons de style gothique. C’est là que se trouve cet appartement au design doux, aux coloris frais, et au mobilier en rotin (des modèles Ikea PS, que nous avons du mal à nous procurer en France !), au calme d’un bâtiment donnant sur une cour pavée pleine de charme, une oasis de calme dans un quartier très vivant et typique.

Apartment with a soft design in a typical district
Haga is one of the oldest districts in Gothenburg and its name comes from the horticulture found there in the 17th century. Nowadays, its pedestrian streets are lined with small cafés and shops that have settled in Gothic style houses. This is where you will find this apartment with its soft design, fresh colours and rattan furniture (Ikea PS models, which we have a hard time finding in France!), in the calm of a building overlooking a charming paved courtyard, an oasis of calm in a very lively and typical district.

78m²

Source : Entrance

Nope, does not work because you would need a fourth wire past the GFCI to carry protected neutral along with protected hot. You cannot share unprotected neutral and protected neutral on the same wire. This problem defeats the purpose of a Multi-Wire Branch Circuit, which is the formal name of what you're trying to do).

It is a big part of the reason MWBCs are a time-lost wiring method.

Also, you can't use 2 breakers because you must provide a method to assure that they are on opposite poles (otherwise you overload the neutral) and you must have common maintenance shutoff (impossible to turn one off without the other). That basically compels you to use a 2-pole breaker.

Also, there are no tabs to break off on a GFCI.

I want to do it anyway, and AFCIs are not required here

In that case you can use a 2-pole GFCI breaker, and wire the MWBC in the classic style. Remember you must pigtail neutral wires to every device, so the device can be removed without interrupting neutral.

Alternately, you can wire it with a 2-pole breaker without a GFCI breaker, use GFCI receptacles, and not use the LOAD terminals at all. This moots the issue with the neutral since it is now non-protected neutral in all locations.

I strongly recommend not using the LOAD terminals unless you are very sure of what you're doing, this causes more trouble than it's worth. While it is slick when you can do it, the savings of avoiding a few GFCI receptacles is wasted when you have to spend $150 to call out an electrician to make it all work.

I need AFCI, though

AFCI protection must be at the breaker. There's no such thing as a 2-pole AFCI, so a 2-pole AFCI/GFCI is also out of the question. Also, most AFCIs use the neutral wire like GFCIs and can't share, so a multi-wire branch circuit is not possible.

The exception I am aware of is GE's QLine, which apparently has an AFCI breaker that can coexist on a MWBC with another one. You would then need to use handle ties to tie the two breakers together for common maintenance shutoff.

As far as GFCI, you would need to exit the panel and stop in a junction box, and fit a 2-pole GFCI there.

One extreme option there is to come off the service panel to a hot tub subpanel, which has a GFCI master breaker. Then fit as many AFCI breakers as you need for the various circuits that ned GFCI. Of course, one ground fault would trip them all, so don't put GFCI on the fridge but that is good advice regardless.

I am willing to use /4 cable downstream of the first GFCI

Actually, you need /2/2 cable. In that case the wiring is fairly straightforward: white is black's partner neutral. Red and white-red are GFCI-protected.

At the first box, you pigtail neutral to the GFCI Line neutral. Supply Red goes to GFCI Line hot. In the /4 cable, red and white-red go to GFCI LOAD. Down the line, the two neutrals can't touch each other.

In the second box, supply black and white go to the GFCI Line inputs, no pigtailing needed here. Then downline black and white go to GFCI Load outputs. At this point black/white are one Protected pair, and red/whitered are the other.

At the third and subsequent outlets, you can split the outlets but must break off BOTH tabs and either pigtail all 4 wires, or use the $3 Leviton Pro outlets that provide screw-and-clamp for 2 wires per screw. Do not put one on the screw and one in the backstab, because backstabs are not reliable.

Also use deep/large boxes, because you'll have 8 wires + 1 yoke + clamps + ground for 12 units of fill, so 27 cubic inches of box space.

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This post is going to be a short one for a change, but I thought to post it here after I got some comments about it on Instagram: do you think it’s weird or genius for each person sleeping in a large bed to have their own blanket?

I ask because I shared a cropped version of this pic yesterday, where I revealed that K and I have recently upgraded some of our bedding but have continued to use two separate (twin) comforters on top of our DIY king bed. Since the duvet for a king size bed is roughly the same size as two twin comforters put together, it just makes the both of us a lot more comfortable to not have to pull or fight for the covers. It also helps because both of the dogs like to sleep on the bed for part of the night, and it’s hard enough as it is with these two cover hogs!

According to the comments the post received, this is actually a pretty common practice in Europe (perhaps I’ve unwittingly taken #scandiboho style into my very core?). I honestly had never heard of it before and thought we’d come up with a cool problem-solving hack, but we were clearly beaten to the punch on that (also, a simple Google search would have exposed our lack of originality, too, ha). For several people in the U.S. though, it was either unheard of or some couples do it in secret. Neat, huh?

As for us, it’s definitely a no-secret-shame situation. I like my space when I sleep and K does too, so why not be comfortable, right? Well… as much as one can with a 50-lb dog hogging up foot space �.

The only exception is when I’m making the bed or styling for photos. I haven’t really nailed the two-comforter look to my satisfaction (if you look back at the DIY floating king bed photos such as the one below, that was them!), so I’m choosing to layer another duvet on top that has a pattern I really like. It has a slight lump in the middle because of the overlap, but that doesn’t really bother me since I also drape a blanket across the end of the bed.

The gray twin sizes are far more practical with the dog hair, too, but I absolutely LOVE this black and white one, so it goes on top now. I’m currently editing some new photos with this and more bedroom-related changes for another post (and updating the House Tour page!! that’s always a satisfying moment), so be on the lookout for that.

So, what do you think? Is this something you knew about already, or have you never thought to try it? If you’ve done the two-blanket method before, did you switch back to one at a certain point? Is anyone going to come over to the two-duvet side?

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Cabinet Refinishing – Today we throw ourselves with the melamine furniture of the bathroom. The idea is to give a small touch of color, which serves to customize the furniture and not be so blend. The bathroom furniture is white and we want to include the green of the floor tiles. If you have ever thought of changing the look of the kitchen, the floor or the tiles, it is no longer necessary to assemble a piece of work. Now with the brush or roller and the products that have developed this mark. For each of these surfaces, you can put floors, walls, and furniture to your liking while you protect them.

Before removing the roller, let’s prepare the surface of the melamine furniture before getting the cabinet refinishing. As you know, melamine is a conglomerate of wood. Which is not characterized by having a good grip. Although it is wood it is made with pieces and therefore does not have that capacity of absorption of the solid wood. To ensure that the paint can handle without problems we must pass a fine sandpaper, 100-0 200 grit, and remove all dust with a cloth.

Allow the cabinet refinishing to dry completely before giving the protector. If we give two layers of paint, between one and another it is necessary to leave six hours of drying. Once it is completely dry we can give the protector that has several finishes: lacquered or satin. To us we fancied the satin, which has less shine and sticking more for our bathroom furniture. And once dry we can already remove the tape of bodybuilder of the furniture of the bathroom, which we have just painted.

I'm interested in using insulated vinyl siding on a remodel project, more for the rigidity then the thermal value which is negligible. One of the major benefits of standard vinyl siding is the "built in" rainscreen. I'm concerned that insulated vinyl siding will not drain/dry well and the plywood sheathing will remain damp longer. Literature from Certainteed, Alside, and PlyGem all state that the EPS has a vapor permeance of 5 and that it's breathable. Is this a real concern? Are there any moisture horror stories with insulated vinyl?